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E-Bike vs. Regular Bike: Pedal or Motor Power for Your Commute?
Buying Guides

E-Bike vs. Regular Bike: Pedal or Motor Power for Your Commute?

Aubrey de Josep

Thinking about riding to work instead of driving? Before you buy, there's a more fundamental question than which brand or which colour: should you get an e-bike, or a regular pedal bike? Both can absolutely get you there. But they suit different commutes and different fitness levels. This guide compares them honestly, then walks through what to look for in either one and the different types available, so you can choose based on your actual commute rather than which one looks cooler in the shop window. In Summary A regular bike keeps things simple and gives you a built-in workout; an e-bike takes the edge off hills and longer distances. E-bikes are legally treated as standard bicycles nationwide—no licence or registration required, provided they meet the national standard. Step-through frames suit frequent stops and riding in work clothes; step-over frames are lighter and stiffer. Hub-drive motors are simpler and cheaper; mid-drive motors climb better but cost more. E-bike batteries are lithium-ion, so a few sensible charging habits go a long way. A helmet is a legal requirement either way—budget for the extras too: a lock, lights, and weather-appropriate gear. In This Article What Counts as an E-Bike vs a Pedal Bike? E-Bike vs Regular Bike: How They Actually Compare At a Glance: Our Top Picks What to Consider When Choosing Your Setup 1. Motor Type: Hub Drive vs Mid-Drive (E-Bike Only) 2. Frame Style: Step-Through vs Step-Over (Both) 3. Battery & Range (E-Bike Only) 4. Gearing: How Many Gears Do You Need? (Both) 5. Brakes: Disc vs Rim (Both) 6. Suspension: Yes or No? (Both) 7. Wheels and Tyres (Both) Common Types: Regular Bikes & E-Bikes Battery Care Basics Essential Gear for Your Commute So, Which Should You Choose? Our Recommended Picks What Counts as an E-Bike vs a Pedal Bike? A pedal bike (also called a regular or standard bike) is entirely human-powered—there's no motor or battery involved at all. Every bit of forward motion comes from your own pedalling. An e-bike looks and rides much like a regular bike, but has a small electric motor and battery that assist your pedalling. In Australia, the e-bikes sold for everyday commuting are "pedal-assist," meaning the motor only provides help while you're pedalling and cuts out once you reach 25km/h—it doesn't propel the bike on its own like a scooter or motorbike would. Motor output is capped at 250W of continuous power. Bikes that meet this standard are legally treated the same as a regular bicycle in every Australian state and territory—no license, registration, or special permit required, though normal bicycle road rules (including helmet laws) still apply. See the Australian Government's importer's guide to electric bikes for the full national standard. E-Bike vs Regular Bike: How They Actually Compare Factor E-Bike Regular Bike Physical Effort Pedal-assist motor takes the edge off hills and headwinds, so you arrive without breaking a sweat. All the effort is yours—a great built-in workout, but a real factor on hot days or steep routes. Commute Distance Motor assistance makes longer commutes genuinely comfortable, often 15-40km round trips. Best suited to shorter commutes, typically under 15km, unless you're already a confident rider. Keeping Pace with Traffic Motor assistance helps you match the flow of city traffic more easily, even from a standing start. Keeping pace at lights and intersections relies more on your own fitness and technique. Weight & Handling Heavier due to the motor and battery, which can matter if you need to carry it up stairs. Lighter and easier to lift, carry, or manoeuvre in tight spaces. Multi-Stop Commutes Extra stops for errands or school drop-offs barely register with a motor doing some of the work. Multiple stops add up in physical effort, especially if you're carrying extra weight along the way. Arriving Fresh Ideal if you need to arrive at work without being sweaty, especially in warmer months. Requires more physical exertion—worth considering if you don't have a chance to freshen up. At a Glance: Our Top Picks Best For... Our Pick: Key Highlight: Pedal Power: Everyday Commuter Pedal Orion 2 Hydro Cruiser Bike Our best-selling regular commuter bike, with hydraulic disc brakes and a relaxed, upright riding position. Pedal Power: Sport Commuter Merida Crossway 20 Hybrid Bike A step up in componentry and ride quality for commuters wanting a sportier, faster feel. Motor Power: Everyday Commuter Pedal Comet 3 Disc Electric Hybrid Bike One of our best-selling e-bikes, with reliable disc brakes and a smooth, dependable hub-drive motor. Motor Power: Long-Distance Commuter Merida eSpresso CC 300 EQ SE A rugged, fully equipped commuter with semi-knobby tyres and integrated Shimano E-system power. Whichever You Choose Moon Rigel Pro & Helix Sense Light Set Our best-selling light set—essential for visibility whether you're riding electric or regular. What to Consider When Choosing Your Setup Whichever direction you're leaning, it helps to understand what actually separates a good commuter bike from a great one. Here's what to look for. 1. Motor Type: Hub Drive vs Mid-Drive (E-Bike Only) Hub Drive: The motor sits in the wheel, making it a simpler and generally more affordable system, well suited to flatter commutes and everyday riding. It doesn't perform quite as smoothly on steep or repeated climbs as a mid-drive system. Mid-Drive: The motor sits near the pedals, giving a more natural ride feel and stronger performance on hills. It's usually the pricier option, but it's the better choice if your commute includes any serious climbing. 2. Frame Style: Step-Through vs Step-Over (Both) The frame is the heart of the bike, and this choice applies whether you're looking at an e-bike or a regular bike. Step-Through: A low, swooping frame that makes getting on and off easy, especially useful if you're commuting in work clothes or stopping and starting frequently. It's not usually the choice for riders prioritising the stiffest, most efficient frame for speed. Step-Over (Crossbar): The traditional frame shape, generally a little lighter and stiffer than a step-through design. It requires swinging a leg over the saddle to mount, which some riders find less convenient for frequent stops. 3. Battery & Range (E-Bike Only) Battery capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh)—the higher the number, the further you can ride before needing a charge. Real-world range depends heavily on rider weight, terrain, and how much you lean on the higher assist settings, so treat any advertised range figure as a best-case number. If your round trip is on the longer side, it's worth choosing a battery with some buffer above your actual daily distance. 4. Gearing: How Many Gears Do You Need? (Both) More gears aren't always better. The key is having the right range for your local terrain. Simpler Gearing: A single chainring at the front means only one shifter to worry about, offering simplicity and lower maintenance. It's best suited to flatter commutes, and less capable if your route includes steep or sustained climbs. Wider Gear Range: More gears at the front and back give a much broader range for tackling hills. This setup makes climbing more manageable, though it does add a little extra weight and maintenance compared to a simpler system. 5. Brakes: Disc vs Rim (Both) Your brakes are your most important safety feature. Rim Brakes: The traditional option, where brake pads squeeze against the wheel rim. They're simple, lightweight, and easy to service, but lose some effectiveness in wet weather. Disc Brakes: Offer significantly more powerful and consistent stopping power in all conditions—a real advantage in an unexpected downpour. This is especially worth prioritising on an e-bike, since the added weight of the motor and battery puts more demand on your brakes. 6. Suspension: Yes or No? (Both) Suspension Fork: Absorbs bumps from potholes and uneven surfaces, giving a smoother, more comfortable ride if your commute includes rougher paths or light gravel sections. Rigid Fork: Lighter and more efficient on smooth pavement, with virtually no maintenance required. It's the more practical choice if you're mostly sticking to well-maintained roads and bike paths. 7. Wheels and Tyres (Both) Commuter bikes typically use 700c wheels, which roll quickly and efficiently on pavement. Tyre width is a genuine trade-off: a wider tyre offers more comfort and grip on rougher surfaces, while a narrower tyre is generally faster and lighter on smooth roads. If you're not sure which you'll need, a slightly wider tyre is the safer, more comfortable default for everyday riding. Common Types: Regular Bikes & E-Bikes Beyond individual features, it helps to understand the different types available and which one actually matches how you plan to ride. Comfort-Focused Cruiser Bike: A regular bike with a relaxed, upright frame, a wide comfortable saddle, and often swept-back handlebars, prioritising comfort over speed. Suits riders wanting a relaxed commute and the lowest-maintenance option—not built for riders wanting to cover ground quickly. Sport Hybrid Bike: A regular bike with a more forward-leaning riding position, a lighter frame, and narrower tyres, blending road-bike efficiency with everyday practicality. Trades some comfort for a more efficient, road-ready feel, better suited to confident riders wanting a faster commute, though it's a less relaxed ride over very long distances. Hub-Drive E-Bike: An e-bike with its motor built into the wheel hub—usually the rear wheel—rather than at the pedals. Suits flatter, everyday commutes where simplicity and a lower price matter most. Mid-Drive E-Bike: An e-bike with its motor mounted at the pedals, driving the chain directly rather than the wheel. With a larger battery and more rugged components, it's the better choice for longer or hillier commutes—generally not the most cost-effective option if your commute is short and flat, where a simpler hub-drive setup would do the job just as well. Battery Care Basics Like any lithium-ion battery-powered device—laptops, power tools, phones—e-bikes are happiest when charged and stored sensibly. A few simple habits go a long way: use the charger that came with your device, charge on a hard surface away from exits and living areas, avoid leaving it charging unattended overnight, and stop using a battery that's swollen, leaking, or visibly damaged. It's also worth looking for a genuine compliance mark on the battery and charger before you buy, and it only takes a minute to check for current recalls at the ACCC's Product Safety Australia. For more detail, Fire and Rescue NSW publishes a straightforward guide to e-bike battery care. Essential Gear for Your Commute Electric or regular, a few extras make a real difference to safety and convenience. A Helmet: A legal requirement for cyclists in every Australian state and territory—look for a snug, adjustable fit and good ventilation for warmer commutes. Browse our range of recreational helmets. Lights: A front light bright enough to see and be seen in traffic, a rear light with a daytime flash mode for extra visibility, and rechargeable batteries so you're never caught out. Browse our range of front and rear light sets. A Reliable Lock: Both e-bikes and regular bikes are worth protecting, and commuting means parking in public more often than not—at train stations, cafes, or outside the office. Check out our range of bike locks. Storage: A Bag, Backpack, or Panniers: A well-fitted backpack works for either bike, while a rear rack and panniers keep the weight off your back entirely—handy if you're regularly carrying a laptop or groceries. Browse our range of backpacks and panniers. Hi-Vis Clothing: Riding in traffic means being seen matters just as much as seeing where you're going, especially at dawn or dusk. See our range of hi-vis clothing. Wet Weather Gear: A lightweight, packable rain jacket means an unexpected downpour doesn't have to mean arriving at work soaked. Browse our range of wet weather and waterproof jackets. A Phone Mount: A stable, handlebar-mounted holder makes following directions on an unfamiliar route far easier and safer than trying to check your phone from a pocket. See our range of phone mounts.   So, Which Should You Choose? There's no universally right answer—just the option that matches your commute and how you want to arrive. Choose a regular bike if: your commute is short and mostly flat, you're looking for a reliable daily workout built into your commute, or you'd rather keep things simple with fewer moving parts. Choose an e-bike if: your commute is longer or hillier, you need to arrive without working up a sweat, or motor assistance is what will actually get you riding instead of driving. Not sure? Think about your worst-case commute day: a hot afternoon, a headwind, or a longer-than-usual route. If that thought makes you hesitate, a motor's assistance is likely worth having.

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E-Scooter vs. E-Hybrid Bike: Which E-Mobility Setup Best Fits Your Daily Commute?
Buying Guides

E-Scooter vs. E-Hybrid Bike: Which E-Mobility Setup Best Fits Your Daily Commute?

Ditching the car (or the crowded train carriage) for your daily commute? Two very different kinds of electric ride can get you there: a compact e-scooter you can fold and carry onto a train, or a full-frame e-hybrid bike built to handle the whole journey door to door. Both are genuinely excellent ways to commute—but they solve slightly different problems. This guide compares them honestly, then walks through what to look for in either one and the different types available, so you can match the setup to your actual commute rather than just the hype. In Summary E-scooters win on portability and upfront price; e-hybrid bikes win on range, weather handling, and cargo capacity. E-hybrid bikes are legally treated as standard bicycles nationwide—no licence or registration required. E-scooter rules vary significantly by state, and privately-owned e-scooters currently can't be ridden in public in NSW at all. Both run on lithium-ion batteries, so a few sensible charging habits go a long way. A helmet isn't optional on either one—it's a legal requirement in Australia. Budget for the extras: a decent lock, lights, and a spare tube if your scooter runs air-filled tyres. In This Article E-Scooter vs E-Hybrid Bike: How They Actually Compare At a Glance: Our Top Picks What to Consider When Choosing Your Setup 1. Scooter Motor & Power (E-Scooter) 2. Folding Mechanism & Carry Weight (E-Scooter) 3. Tyres: Air-Filled vs Solid (E-Scooter) 4. E-Bike Motor Type: Hub Drive vs Mid-Drive (E-Hybrid Bike) 5. Battery & Range (Both) 6. Frame Style: Step-Through vs Step-Over (E-Hybrid Bike) 7. Cargo & Weather Equipment (E-Hybrid Bike) Know the Rules Before You Ride Battery Care Basics Essential Gear for Your Commute Shop the Range So, Which Should You Choose? E-Scooter vs E-Hybrid Bike: How They Actually Compare Factor E-Scooter E-Hybrid Bike Portability & Storage Folds down in seconds—carry it into an office, onto a train, or under a desk. Needs a bike rack or dedicated storage space; not something you carry indoors. Range Per Charge Typically 30–70km, well suited to short-to-medium inner-city hops. Often 60–100km+, better suited to longer or multi-stop commutes. Cargo Capacity Minimal—a small bag on your back is about the limit. Pannier racks, baskets, and mudguards make carrying groceries or a laptop bag easy. Terrain & Weather Handling Small wheels struggle with potholes, gravel, and heavy rain. Larger wheels and a stable frame cope far better with rough or wet conditions. Upfront Cost Generally the cheaper way in, with strong options under $1,000. Higher starting price, but you're also buying a complete bike, not just a motor. Long-Term Running Costs Small, easily-worn tyres and modest battery packs may need earlier replacement. Larger, more durable components generally mean a longer service life per dollar. At a Glance: Our Top Picks Best For... Our Pick: Key Highlight: Portability Segway Ninebot KickScooter E2 Plus II Our lightest, most portable scooter—easy to fold, carry, and take with you the moment you step off. Best Value Segway Ninebot KickScooter E2 Pro A genuinely popular entry point, with rear-wheel drive and built-in turn signals. All-Rounder Pedal Eagle ST Electric Hybrid Bike Our #1 selling e-hybrid bike, with a step-through frame and a smooth mid-drive motor. Range & Cargo Cube Touring Hybrid ONE 600 A Bosch mid-drive motor, 600Wh battery, integrated lights, mudguards, and a rear pannier rack. Whichever You Choose Cinettica Velocita Road Helmet One of our best-selling helmets, essential whether you're riding a scooter or a bike. What to Consider When Choosing Your Setup Whichever direction you're leaning, it helps to understand what actually separates a good setup from a great one. Here's what to look for. 1. Scooter Motor & Power (E-Scooter) A scooter's motor type (single or dual wheel) and power output affects how well it handles hills and how quickly it gets up to speed. Entry-level single motor scooters are fine for flat, short commutes, but if your route includes any real inclines, look for a higher-powered or dual-wheel motor. An underpowered scooter can feel genuinely sluggish on even a moderate hill, and some budget models struggle to maintain speed once a rider's weight is added into the mix. 2. Folding Mechanism & Carry Weight (E-Scooter) If part of your commute involves carrying the scooter—onto a train, up stairs, or into an office—the folding mechanism matters as much as the specs sheet. Look for a simple, one-motion fold that locks securely, and pay attention to the actual carry weight rather than just the advertised range or power, since a heavier scooter can quickly become a burden on a multi-leg commute. 3. Tyres: Air-Filled vs Solid (E-Scooter) Air-Filled Tyres: Offer a noticeably smoother, more comfortable ride over bumps and uneven footpaths. The trade-off is that they can be punctured, so a spare tube or repair kit is worth carrying. Solid Tyres: Puncture-proof and low-maintenance, making them a practical choice if you don't want to think about tyre pressure or repairs. They transmit more vibration through to the rider, so the ride is noticeably firmer on rough surfaces. 4. Motor Type: Hub Drive vs Mid-Drive (E-Hybrid Bike) Hub Drive: The motor sits in the bike's wheel hub, making it a simpler and generally more affordable system, well suited to flatter commutes and everyday riding. It doesn't perform quite as smoothly on steep or repeated climbs as a mid-drive system. Mid-Drive: The motor sits within the frame near the pedals, giving a more natural ride feel and stronger performance on hills. It's usually the pricier option, but it's the better choice if your commute includes any serious climbing. 5. Battery & Range (Both) Battery capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh)—the higher the number, the further you can ride before needing a charge. Real-world range depends heavily on rider weight, terrain, and how much you lean on the higher assist settings, so treat any advertised range figure as a best-case number. If your round trip is on the longer side, it's worth choosing a battery with some buffer above your actual daily distance. 6. Frame Style: Step-Through vs Step-Over (E-Hybrid Bike) Step-Through: A low, swooping frame that makes getting on and off easy, especially useful if you're commuting in work clothes or stopping and starting frequently. It's not usually the choice for riders prioritising the stiffest, most efficient frame for speed. Step-Over (Crossbar): The traditional frame shape, generally a little lighter and stiffer than a step-through design. It requires swinging a leg over the saddle to mount, which some riders find less convenient for frequent stops. 7. Cargo & Weather Equipment (E-Hybrid Bike) If you'll be carrying groceries, a laptop, or gear, look for a bike with a rear rack rated for panniers or a basket, since not all e-hybrid bikes come with one fitted as standard. Mudguards keep road spray off you in wet weather, and integrated lights are a genuine convenience for early starts or late finishes, saving you from needing a separate light set. Know the Rules Before You Ride Rules for e-hybrid bikes are fairly consistent nationally: a compliant e-bike is pedal-assist, capped at 250W of continuous motor output, cuts assistance at 25km/h, and is treated the same as a standard bicycle in every state and territory—no licence or registration required. See the Australian Government's importer's guide to electric bikes for the national standard (EN15194). E-scooter rules are far less consistent, and vary significantly by state. For example, in NSW it's currently illegal to ride a privately-owned e-scooter in any public place (that means footpaths, roads, shared paths, and bike lanes); with only government-run shared e-scooter trials permitted in designated areas. Other states and territories, including Victoria, Queensland, Western Australia, South Australia, Tasmania, the ACT, and the Northern Territory, do allow private e-scooter use under their own rules covering speed limits, rider age, and where you can ride. Always check your own state or territory's transport authority for the most up-to-date information before riding an e-scooter in public. Battery Care Basics Like any lithium-ion battery-powered device—laptops, power tools, phones—e-scooters and e-hybrid bikes are happiest when charged and stored sensibly. A few simple habits go a long way: use the charger that came with your device, charge on a hard surface away from exits and living areas, avoid leaving it charging unattended overnight, and stop using a battery that's swollen, leaking, or visibly damaged. It's also worth looking for a genuine compliance mark on the battery and charger before you buy, and it only takes a minute to check for current recalls at the ACCC's Product Safety Australia. For general information, Fire and Rescue NSW publishes a straightforward guide to e-bike and e-scooter battery care. As with all regulatory matters, it's best to check with your local state or territory for any battery safety rules. Essential Gear for Your Commute Scooter or bike, one piece of gear isn't optional: a proper helmet. Both e-scooters and e-hybrid bikes can reach speeds well above a casual walk or pedal, and in most parts of Australia a helmet is a legal requirement on either one—not just good sense. A Helmet: Look for a snug, adjustable fit with a secure retention system, good ventilation for warmer commutes, and a lightweight shell that's comfortable to wear for the full trip. Browse our range of recreational helmets. Lights: A front and rear light set makes a genuine difference for early starts, late finishes, or any low-light riding—and in most parts of Australia, lights are a legal requirement after dark. Browse our range of front and rear light sets. A Reliable Lock: Both e-scooters and e-hybrid bikes are a real investment, and commuting means parking in public more often than not—at train stations, cafes, or outside the office. Check out our range of bike locks. Storage: A Bag, Backpack, or Panniers: A well-fitted backpack works for either setup, while a rear rack and panniers on an e-hybrid bike keep the weight off your back entirely—handy if you're regularly carrying a laptop or groceries. Browse our range of backpacks and panniers. Hi-Vis Clothing: Riding in traffic means being seen matters just as much as seeing where you're going, especially at dawn or dusk. See our range of hi-vis clothing. Wet Weather Gear: Whichever your choose, a lightweight, packable rain jacket means an unexpected downpour doesn't have to mean arriving at work soaked. Browse our range of wet weather and waterproof jackets. A Phone Mount: A stable, handlebar-mounted holder makes following directions on an unfamiliar route far easier and safer than trying to check your phone from a pocket. See our range of phone mounts. Shop the Range Ready to compare for yourself? Browse our full range of electric scooters and electric hybrid bikes, or explore trusted brands like Segway Ninebot, Cube, and Merida. So, Which Should You Choose? There's no universally right answer—just the option that matches your actual commute. Choose an e-scooter if: part of your journey is by train or bus and you need something you can fold and carry, your commute is short-to-medium and mostly on smooth footpaths or bike paths, or you want the lowest possible upfront cost—and your state allows private e-scooter use in public. Choose an e-hybrid bike if: your commute is longer or hillier, you regularly carry a bag, laptop, or groceries, you ride in all weather, you want a single setup that handles the entire trip door to door, or you're in a state where private e-scooters aren't yet road-legal. Not sure? Consider your worst-case day: if a sudden downpour or a flat tyre would leave an e-scooter commuter stranded, that's a strong signal an e-hybrid bike's sturdier build and cargo capacity are the safer long-term bet.

Indoor Smart Trainer Buying Guide: Everything You Need to Know
Buying Guides

Indoor Smart Trainer Buying Guide: Everything You Need to Know

Thinking about training indoors? A smart trainer or smart bike is one of the most reliable ways to build fitness on your own schedule—no traffic, no weather, no daylight to work around. But with basic and smart wheel-on trainers, direct-drive trainers, and dedicated smart bikes or frame combos all on the market, picking the right setup can feel overwhelming. This guide breaks down exactly what to look for, the different types available, and the extras worth having from day one—so you can buy with confidence, whatever your budget. In Summary A basic wheel-on trainer is the cheapest way in; a smart wheel-on trainer adds app data on a budget; a direct-drive trainer is quieter and more accurate; a smart bike or frame combo is the simplest all-in-one option. Popular training apps like Zwift usually cost extra as an ongoing subscription—factor that into your budget beyond the hardware price. If you're buying a direct-drive trainer, check your bike's rear axle standard matches before you buy. Using a wheel-on trainer? A proper trainer tyre will save you money on worn-out rubber down the track. Indoor sessions run hotter and sweatier than outdoor riding—budget for a fan, towel, and training mat, not just the trainer itself. In This Article At a Glance: Our Top Picks What to Consider When Choosing Your Trainer 1. Trainer Type: Wheel-On vs Smart Direct-Drive vs Smart Bike or Frame Combo 2. Bike Compatibility: Axle Standards & Adapters 3. Connectivity and Training Apps 4. Noise and Resistance 5. Footprint & Storage Common Types of Trainers So, Which Should You Choose? Electrical Safety Basics Essential Gear for Indoor Training Shop the Range At a Glance: Our Top Picks Best For... Our Pick: Key Highlight: Smart-Trainer & Frame Combo Zwift Ride with KICKR CORE 2 Smart Trainer Our single best-selling product across the entire range—an adjustable indoor frame paired with a direct-drive trainer unit. Direct Drive Wahoo KICKR CORE 2 Smart Trainer One of our most popular trainers, pairing accurate power data with quiet, stable performance on your own bike. Wheel-On Wahoo KICKR ROLLR Smart Trainer A genuine smart, connected wheel-on trainer—real power data and app compatibility without needing to swap your rear wheel. Budget JetBlack S3 Sport Indoor Trainer The lowest-cost way to try structured indoor training, using your bike's own wheel rather than requiring a swap. What to Consider When Choosing Your Trainer Choosing an indoor trainer is about matching it to how you'll actually use it. Here's what to look for. 1. Trainer Type: Wheel-On vs Smart Direct-Drive vs Smart Bike or Frame Combo Wheel-On Trainer: Your rear wheel presses against a resistance roller, which is the cheapest and simplest way to get started indoors. These come in both basic (non-connected) versions, with no app or data compatibility at all, and smart, connected versions that still use your wheel but add power and speed data plus app compatibility. Either way, it's noisier than a direct-drive setup and wears through tyres faster. Smart Direct-Drive Trainer: Replaces your bike's rear wheel with the trainer's own resistance unit, turning your existing road or hybrid bike into an indoor training tool. It's the more affordable way in if you already own a bike you like, but it does mean swapping your wheel on and off each time, and it only works as well as the bike you're attaching it to. Smart-Trainer & Frame Combo: A dedicated indoor frame, such as the Zwift Ride, paired with a separate direct-drive trainer unit. The frame gives you an adjustable, bike-like fit without needing your own bike, and in some cases the trainer unit itself can be swapped out or later paired with an outdoor bike—giving you more flexibility than a fully fused setup. Standalone Smart Bike: A complete, purpose-built indoor bike where the frame and resistance unit are permanently fused into one unit, with nothing to attach, swap, or repurpose. It's the simplest option to live with day to day, but it's a dedicated indoor-only purchase with no flexibility if your needs change. 2. Bike Compatibility: Axle Standards & Adapters If you're going with a direct-drive trainer, it needs to physically match your bike's rear axle standard—either a quick-release skewer or a thru-axle, and if it's a thru-axle, the specific diameter and length matter too. Most direct-drive trainers ship with adapters to cover the common standards, but it's worth checking your bike's exact axle type before you buy, especially if it's a newer bike or came from overseas, since not every combination is covered out of the box. 3. Connectivity and Training Apps Most smart trainers and smart bikes connect wirelessly to apps like Zwift, letting you join virtual group rides, follow structured workouts, and see your power output in real time. Before buying, check that a trainer supports the app you actually want to use—most modern trainers are broadly compatible, but very cheap or older models can be more limited in which apps and features they support. Worth budgeting for: most of the popular training apps run on an ongoing monthly or annual subscription on top of the hardware cost, so factor that into your running costs rather than treating the trainer itself as a one-off purchase. 4. Noise and Resistance Direct-drive trainers are generally quieter than wheel-on designs, since there's no tyre spinning against a resistance unit—a genuine factor if you're training early, late, or in a shared building. Resistance range matters too—look for a trainer that can realistically simulate steep climbs if hill training is part of your plan, since budget trainers sometimes struggle to replicate steeper gradients convincingly. 5. Footprint & Storage A standalone smart bike or smart-trainer frame combo is a semi-permanent fixture—it needs a dedicated spot in your home, since neither is something you fold away after a session. Wheel-on and direct-drive trainers are generally more compact and easier to tuck against a wall or under a table between rides, which is worth thinking about if you're working with limited space or sharing a room with other furniture. So, Which Type of Trainer Should You Choose? There's no single right answer—just the option that matches your budget, your space, and how seriously you plan to train. Choose a basic (non-connected) trainer if: you just want an occasional, low-cost way to keep pedalling indoors, without needing apps, data, or structured workouts. Choose a smart wheel-on trainer if: you want app compatibility and basic training data on a budget, without committing to a full direct-drive setup. Choose a direct-drive trainer if: you already own a bike you're happy with and want accurate, quiet performance for regular structured training. Choose a smart bike or frame combo if: you want the simplest, most convenient indoor setup and are happy dedicating a permanent space to it. Essential Gear for Indoor Training A few extras make a real difference once you're actually training. Clipless Shoes and Pedals: Most smart trainers and smart bikes are set up for clipless pedals, so a proper pair of cycling shoes makes a real difference to comfort and power transfer. Browse our range of road cycling shoes and road pedals. A Heart Rate Monitor: Gives you an extra layer of data to track effort and fitness improvements over time alongside your power numbers. Browse our range of heart rate monitors. Padded Cycling Shorts: Genuinely useful for longer indoor sessions, and one of the simplest upgrades for overall comfort. Browse our range of men's cycling shorts and women's cycling shorts. A Training Mat: Protects your flooring from sweat and vibration, and helps dampen noise if you're riding in a shared building or apartment—a worthwhile first purchase for any indoor setup. Browse our range of trainer accessories. A Fan and a Tablet or Phone Holder: Without the cooling effect of riding outdoors, indoor sessions heat up fast—a dedicated fan pointed at your setup makes a bigger difference to comfort, and how hard you can actually push, than most first-timers expect. A stable, handlebar or frame-mounted device holder makes following a training app like Zwift far easier than propping a device up and hoping it stays put. See our range of trainer accessories.

Your First E-MTB: An Entry-Level Buying Guide
Buying Guides

Your First E-MTB: An Entry-Level Buying Guide

Thinking about making the switch to an electric mountain bike? You're not alone. Electric mountain bikes have quickly become one of the most popular ways to get onto the trails—flattening climbs, extending your ride time, and opening up terrain that might've felt out of reach before. But with dozens of models, motor systems, and suspension setups on the market, picking your first electric mountain bike can feel overwhelming. This guide breaks down exactly what to look for, the different types of electric mountain bikes on the market, and the accessories worth having from day one—so you can buy with confidence, whatever your budget. In Summary Motor type is the biggest decision: hub-drive is cheaper and simpler, mid-drive climbs and handles rough trails better. Hardtails suit fire roads and commuting; dual-suspension earns its extra weight and cost on genuinely technical trails. Treat advertised battery range as a best case, not a guarantee—it varies a lot with terrain and rider weight. Hydraulic disc brakes and an alloy frame are the sensible defaults for a first electric mountain bike. Budget for a helmet, lights, a lock, and hydration/storage from day one. In This Article At a Glance: Our Top Picks What to Consider When Choosing an Electric Mountain Bike 1. Motor Type: Hub Drive vs Mid-Drive 2. Battery & Range 3. Frame Type: Hardtail vs Dual Suspension 4. Suspension Travel 5. Brakes: Why Hydraulic Disc Matters More 6. Frame Material: Alloy vs Carbon Common Types of Electric Mountain Bikes Hardtail Electric Mountain Bike Trail Dual-Suspension Electric Mountain Bike Enduro Dual-Suspension Electric Mountain Bike Quick Glossary: E-Bike Terms Worth Knowing Know the Rules Before You Ride Essential Accessories for Your First Electric Mountain Bike Our full list of first E-MTB recommendations At a Glance: Our Top Electric Mountain Bike Picks for First-Time Buyers Best For... Our Pick: Key Highlight: Under $3K Pedal Lynx 3C Electric Hardtail Our best-selling entry-level electric mountain bike. With 70km range, an 80Nm mid-drive motor and 100mm front suspension. Overall Cube Reaction Hybrid Performance 600 Cube's top-selling hardtail electric mountain bike, backed by decades of German engineering pedigree. Best Value Dual-Suspension Merida eOne-Forty 400 Our best-selling full-suspension electric mountain bike overall, with genuine trail-ready capability and Merida's trusted engineering. Best for Commuting Cube Reaction Hybrid Performance 600 FE Easy Entry A step-through frame plus integrated lights, mudguards, a kickstand, and carrier points—genuinely ready for daily commuting straight off the showroom floor. What to Consider When Choosing an Electric Mountain Bike Choosing an electric mountain bike is about matching its features to how and where you actually plan to ride. Here's what to look for. 1. Motor Type: Hub Drive vs Mid-Drive This is the single biggest decision you'll make on an electric mountain bike, and it affects everything from price to how the bike actually rides on the trail. Hub Drive: The motor sits in the wheel hub, making these systems simpler, lighter on the wallet, and lower-maintenance. They're a great match for fire roads, groomed trails, and commuting. The trade-off is that a hub motor adds extra weight right at the wheel—weight that has to bounce and move with every bump instead of being cushioned by the suspension—which can make the bike feel less composed on rough, technical terrain. That's why they're generally not the right tool for aggressive, rocky descents or serious off-road trails. Mid-Drive: The motor sits near the bike's centre of gravity and drives power through the pedals and chain, giving a more natural, balanced ride feel and better performance on steep or technical climbs. Mid-drive systems put more strain through the chain and gears, so those parts on a hard-ridden mid-drive bike tend to wear faster and need replacing sooner. They're also usually the pricier option, but it's what you'll find on most bikes built specifically for serious trail and off-road riding. 2. Battery & Range Battery capacity is measured in watt-hours (Wh)—the higher the number, the further you can ride before needing a charge. Entry-level electric mountain bikes typically carry a 400–500Wh battery, good for a couple of hours of mixed trail riding, while higher-end bikes push toward 600–700Wh+ for longer days out. Range in the real world depends heavily on terrain, rider weight, and how much you lean on the motor's higher assist settings, so treat any advertised range figure as a best-case number rather than a guarantee. Most electric mountain bike batteries take 3–6 hours for a full charge, so an overnight charge is usually all you need before your next ride. 3. Frame Type: Hardtail vs Dual Suspension Hardtail (front suspension only): Lighter, simpler to maintain, and generally more affordable, since there's no rear shock to service. A hardtail is an excellent choice for fire roads, light, narrow trails, and commuting, but the lack of rear suspension means rougher, rockier trails transmit more impact straight through to the rider. Dual Suspension (front and rear): A rear shock soaks up impacts on technical terrain, keeping your rear wheel planted and giving you far more control and comfort on rough descents. The trade-off is extra weight, a higher price tag, and a rear shock that will eventually need servicing—worth it if your local trails are genuinely technical, but often more bike than you need for smoother terrain. 4. Suspension Travel Travel refers to how far the suspension can compress, measured in millimetres, and it should match the terrain you actually ride rather than the terrain you aspire to ride. Around 100mm of front travel suits fire trails and light, narrow trails, 120–140mm covers most all-round trail riding, and 150mm or more is built for aggressive, technical descents. More travel isn't automatically better—it adds weight and reduces pedalling efficiency, so a heavily-travelled bike can feel sluggish and overbuilt if most of your riding is on smoother trails. 5. Brakes: Why Hydraulic Disc Matters More on an Electric Mountain Bike Electric mountain bikes are heavier than standard mountain bikes thanks to the motor and battery, and pedal assist means you'll often be travelling faster too. That combination puts more demand on your brakes, which is why hydraulic disc brakes—not mechanical or rim brakes—are the standard on virtually every electric mountain bike worth buying. They offer stronger, more consistent stopping power in wet or muddy conditions, which matters even more when there's extra weight and speed to manage. 6. Frame Material: Alloy vs Carbon Most entry-level and mid-range electric mountain bikes use an aluminium alloy frame—strong, durable, and easy to repair if it ever takes a hit, at a more accessible price point. Carbon frames shave off meaningful weight (a real benefit given how heavy the motor and battery already make an electric mountain bike) and often ride with a bit more precision, but carry a higher price tag and are more expensive to repair if damaged. For a first electric mountain bike, alloy is the sensible, proven choice—carbon is worth considering once you know exactly how and where you'll be riding. Common Types of Electric Mountain Bikes "Electric mountain bike" covers a genuinely wide range of bikes built for very different kinds of riding. Matching the type to your actual riding style matters more than chasing the highest spec sheet. Hardtail Electric Mountain Bike: The most common starting point, and usually paired with a hub-drive motor. Great for fire roads, groomed, narrow trails, and even doubling as a commuter thanks to the lower weight and simpler maintenance. It's not the right choice if your local trails are rocky, root-covered, or feature sustained technical descents—that's exactly the terrain a hardtail (and a hub motor) struggle with. Trail Dual-Suspension Electric Mountain Bike: Usually running 120–140mm of travel and a mid-drive motor, this is the genuine all-rounder for riders who tackle a real mix of terrain—flowing, narrow trails, moderate climbs, and the occasional rocky or root-covered section. It's more bike than you need if you're sticking to smooth, wide trails, but it's the sweet spot for most regular trail riders. Enduro Dual-Suspension Electric Mountain Bike: Built with 150mm+ of travel, a lower, more stable frame design, and a mid-drive motor to match, these bikes are designed for aggressive, technical descents and bike park laps. That capability comes at a cost—they're heavier, less efficient on flatter trails, and typically the most expensive category of electric mountain bike. Not the ideal first bike for someone still building trail confidence, but the right tool if you already know you're chasing steep, rough terrain. Quick Glossary: E-Bike Terms Worth Knowing A few more terms come up often when shopping for an electric mountain bike. Here's a quick reference. Pedal Assist: The motor only adds power while you're actively pedalling, rather than driving the bike on its own—this is what keeps a compliant electric mountain bike classified as a bicycle rather than a motor vehicle. Assistance Level: The mode you select (often labelled something like Eco, Trail, or Sport) that determines how much help the motor gives for your pedalling effort. Higher modes give more assistance but drain the battery faster. Torque (Nm): A measure of the motor's rotational force, in newton-metres. Higher torque helps with steep climbs and quick acceleration, though how powerful a bike feels also comes down to its software and gearing. Cadence: How fast you're pedalling, in revolutions per minute. Many mid-drive motors perform best within a certain cadence range, so shifting to an easier gear on a climb can help the motor work more efficiently. Motor Cut-Off: The speed at which the motor stops assisting—25km/h for a legal e-bike in Australia. You can still pedal or coast faster than this; you're simply doing it without help from the motor. Peak Power vs Continuous Power: Continuous power is what a motor is rated to sustain over time (legally capped at 250W), while peak power is the higher output it can briefly produce on a steep climb. A brief spike above 250W doesn't make a bike non-compliant. Range Anxiety: The worry that your battery will run out before you finish riding. Since a compliant electric mountain bike is still a genuine bicycle, you can always keep pedalling home unassisted if the battery runs flat. Know the Rules Before You Ride Rules around e-bike power, speed, and rider age can vary by state and are subject to change. Australia's national standard for a legal e-bike—a maximum continuous motor output of 250W, pedal assistance that cuts out at 25km/h, and compliance with the EN 15194 standard—is set out by the Australian Government's importer's guide to electric bikes, which also links out to the specific rules for your own state or territory. Essential Accessories for Your First Electric Mountain Bike A few extras make a real difference to safety and convenience once you're out on the trail. A Proper Mountain Bike Helmet: Electric mountain bikes carry more speed than a standard mountain bike, so a helmet with extended rear coverage and MIPS rotational protection is worth the investment. Browse our range of mountain bike helmets. Lights: Even if you're not planning night rides, a front and rear light set is genuinely useful for early starts, late finishes, or any road riding between your door and the trailhead. See our range of front and rear light sets. A Reliable Lock: Electric mountain bikes represent a serious investment, so a solid lock is worth having for trailhead car parks, cafe stops, or anywhere you need to step away from the bike. Check out our range of bike locks. Hydration & Storage: Longer trail rides mean carrying water, a spare tube, and basic tools. A hydration pack or a simple frame-mounted bottle cage covers most riders' needs. Browse our hydration packs and water bottles. A Bike Computer or GPS: Handy for tracking battery use, distance, and elevation gain—especially useful while you're still learning how far a charge will actually take you. See our range of bike computers.

The E-Bike Accessories Starter Pack: Helmets, Locks, Audio & Essential Tech
Buying Guides

The E-Bike Accessories Starter Pack: Helmets, Locks, Audio & Essential Tech

So, you've made the leap and picked up a new e-bike. Whether you're zooming past gridlocked traffic on your daily commute or embarking on weekend adventures, electric bikes open up a world of speed, freedom, and effortless riding. Getting the most out of your ride isn't just about rolling off the shop floor—it's about gearing up with the right essentials. This guide covers exactly what to look for and why it matters more on an e-bike than a standard bike, from protecting your head at higher speeds to keeping your investment secure outside the coffee shop. In Summary A helmet with rotational impact protection (MIPS, KinetiCore or equivalent) matters more on an e-bike, since higher sustained speeds mean more angled impacts. E-bikes are heavier and more expensive than standard bikes, so match your lock to where you actually park, not just your budget. A rear radar and daylight-visible lights genuinely help at e-bike speeds, since drivers have less time to react as your closing speed increases. A bike computer that tracks battery range is worth having—running low on charge mid-ride changes your options in a way it never does on a standard bike. Open-ear headphones let you stay aware of traffic, which matters even more when you're moving faster. E-bikes are heavier and often run higher tyre pressures, so a pump rated for the job is worth having on hand. In This Article At a Glance: Our Top Picks What to Consider When Gearing Up 1. Head Protection 2. E-Bike Security 3. Smart Visibility & Safety Tech 4. Navigation & Ride Tracking 5. On-the-Move Audio 6. Tyre Top-Ups Recommended products At a Glance: Our Top Picks Best For... Our Pick: Key Highlight: Safety & Head Protection Fox Speedframe Solid MIPS Helmet Advanced MIPS rotational protection, dial-fit system, and optimal airflow. Convenient Security Magnum X2P U-Lock + Cable Heavy-duty hardened steel U-lock bundled with a cable for securing both wheels. Rearward Awareness Garmin Varia RTL515 Radar with Tail-light Detects vehicles up to 140m behind with high-visibility daylight tail light. Navigation & Tracking Garmin Edge 850 GPS Bike Computer Premium touchscreen GPS with bike-specific turn-by-turn routing. On-the-Move Audio Shokz OpenRun Pro 2 Bluetooth Open-Ear Headphones Open-ear, bone-conduction design keeps your ears unblocked so you can hear traffic while you ride. Tyre Top-Ups Topeak E-Booster Digital Electric Bike Tyre Pump Digital, rechargeable pump built to handle higher e-bike tyre pressures with zero pumping effort. What to Consider When Gearing Up An e-bike's extra speed and weight change what actually matters in your gear—here's why each of these is worth prioritising. 1. Head Protection Because e-bikes effortlessly sustain higher cruising speeds than standard bicycles, head protection matters more here than on a regular bike. Most crash impacts aren't perfectly straight-on—they come in at an angle, creating rotational forces that a standard foam liner doesn't fully absorb. A helmet with rotational impact protection (MIPS, KinetiCore or an equivalent system) is a genuine upgrade over one without, and it's worth prioritising given how much more ground you cover at speed. What to Look For: Rotational impact protection (such as MIPS or Kineticore), extended coverage around the sides and back of the head, a dial-fit retention system, and deep ventilation channels. Popular Styles & Options: Lightweight urban commuter helmets with integrated visors and rear light mounts, or versatile mountain bike helmets offering maximum ventilation and deeper coverage. Explore the Range: Browse our complete range of e-bike ready bicycle helmets to find the ideal fit. 2. E-Bike Security Electric bikes represent a significant investment, and the extra motor and battery weight makes them a bigger target than a standard bike in the eyes of an opportunistic thief. Choosing security that matches your actual parking environment—not just your budget—is what genuinely reduces your risk. What to Look For: Match your lock style to your risk level. Hardened steel shackles suit high-risk city parking, while thick braided steel cables offer quicker, more convenient protection for short coffee stops and errands. Popular Styles & Options: Heavy-duty U-Locks (D-Locks) for maximum leverage resistance, flexible folding locks for compact frame mounting, or high-convenience cable locks for quick multi-wheel locking. Explore the Range: Check out our full selection of bike locks and security accessories, or add an extra layer of protection with a bike tracker that helps you locate your e-bike if it's ever moved or stolen. 3. Smart Visibility & Safety Tech E-bikes mix with urban traffic at higher speeds than a standard bike, which means the closing speed between you and an approaching vehicle is greater—giving a driver less time to react if they haven't spotted you. Genuine visibility and awareness tech matters more here, not less. What to Look For: High-lumen headlights for night riding, daylight-visible flashing rear lights, and smart rearview radar sensors that detect approaching vehicles behind you. Popular Styles & Options: Powerful front headlights for path illumination, high-visibility rear tail lights, or complete front and rear light sets. Explore the Range: Browse our broad collection of rechargeable bike lights and safety tech. 4. Navigation & Ride Tracking A dedicated handlebar display earns its keep on an e-bike in a way it doesn't on a standard bike—running low on battery mid-route genuinely changes your options, so tracking remaining range alongside your navigation and fitness metrics is worth having front and centre. What to Look For: A clear outdoor display, turn-by-turn map navigation, long battery endurance, and seamless smartphone sync. Popular Styles & Options: Full-featured GPS cycling computers with turn-by-turn map routing, or simple wireless cyclocomputers focused purely on speed, distance, and trip time. Explore the Range: See all available options in our cycling computers and GPS technology range. 5. On-the-Move Audio Whether it's music on your commute or turn-by-turn cues on a longer ride, the right pair of headphones lets you stay connected without tuning out the road—especially important at the higher speeds an e-bike can reach. What to Look For: Open-ear or bone-conduction designs that leave your ear canal free, so you can still hear traffic and pedestrians, along with sweat resistance and a secure, stay-put fit for bumpy rides. Popular Styles & Options: Open-ear, bone-conduction headphones for maximum road awareness, which often feature a band that sits around the back of your neck.  If you prefer a lower profile fit, there are also true wireless open-ear earbuds which have separate Left/Ri.ght ear buds Explore the Range: Browse our full range of cycling-friendly headphones to find your fit. 6. Tyre Top-Ups E-bikes are heavier than standard bicycles and often run at higher tyre pressures, so keeping on top of your tyre pressure matters more than ever—both for ride comfort and for protecting your wheels and motor from unnecessary strain. What to Look For: A pump rated for higher pressures if you're topping up e-bike tyres, an accurate gauge so you're not over or under-inflating, and a form factor that matches how you'll use it—compact for on-the-go top-ups, or sturdy and fast for use at home. Popular Styles & Options: Take the effort out of it with a rechargeable electric bike pump for quick, tool-free top-ups on the go, or keep a reliable floor pump at home for regular maintenance. Explore the Range: Browse our complete range of bike pumps and inflation accessories to find the right fit for home or on the go.

Spring Reset: get your bike ride-ready in an afternoon

Spring Reset: get your bike ride-ready in an afternoon

Winter's done, your bike's been hanging in the garage for months, and the first warm weekend is coming. A bike that's been sitting still for months isn't broken but a few things drift while it's parked. Good news is getting it back to feeling new doesn't take a full service (although we'd highly recommend a workshop visit if it's been over a year). Four things worth sorting before your first ride back. 1. Tyres Tyres will lose air just sitting there often 5–10 psi a week. Pump them back to pressure before you ride (more on the right number below). Look at the sidewalls. Cracks or a dry, perished look mean the rubber's aged in storage and is definitely worth replacing. 2. Brakes Squeeze both levers. They should feel firm and stop well short of the bar. Spongy or pulling to the grip needs attention. Glance at the pads. If they're near the wear line, book them in before your first big ride. 3. Chain If it looks dry, rusty or orange, don't ride it like that. A neglected chain is loud, slow and damages your drivetrain. Wipe it down and re-lube. 4. The once-over Check the wheels are done up tight (quick-releases closed, thru-axles snug). Try to twist the bars against the front wheel and check there's no movement. Quick squeeze of the stem, seatpost and any bag racks or bottle cages to make sure nothing's worked loose. Spring is our busiest workshop stretch, so if something feels off, book a service early rather than waiting. Your local 99 Bikes store can get you sorted. Myth # 1: Pump your tyres to the big number printed on the sidewall and you'll roll faster. The number on your sidewall is a ceiling, not a target. Run tyres too hard and they skip across bumps instead of gripping them. You lose traction, comfort and, on real roads, often speed too. What actually decides your number Your weight: a heavier rider needs more pressure than a lighter one on the same tyre. Tyre width: wider tyres run lower. A 25mm road tyre and a 2.4" mountain bike tyre live in completely different worlds. Where you ride: smooth road wants more; gravel, dirt and wet want less for grip. Tubes vs tubeless: tubeless lets you safely run lower without pinch flats. A rough starting point Road (700x25–28): many riders land somewhere in the 70–95 psi range. Gravel: roughly 30–45 psi. Mountain bike: often 20–30 psi. These are starting points, not exact. Find your own: start mid-range, then drop about 5 psi at a time until the ride feels grippy and comfortable without the rim ever bottoming out on bumps. That sweet spot is yours. Myth # 2:  A well-oiled chain is a happy chain, so keep the lube coming. Too much lube (and lube on a dirty chain) is worse than too little. Excess oil on the outside grabs dust and grit and turns it into a grinding paste that wears out your chain, cassette and chainrings faster. The lube belongs inside the rollers, not slathered over the top. The right way, in four steps Clean first. Wipe the chain down with a rag, or use a degreaser if it's properly gunky. Never lube over grime. One drop per roller. Run the pedals backwards and drip a single drop onto each link as it goes by. Work it in. Backpedal a few turns so the lube gets inside where it matters. Wipe off the excess. Hold the rag lightly on the chain and backpedal again. The outside should feel dry to the touch. Wet or dry lube? Use wet lube for wet, muddy, winter riding and dry lube for dry, dusty conditions. You should lube your chain when it looks dry or starts squeaking, and after any wet or particularly long ride. If you're not sure, your chain will almost certainly tell you. Myth # 3:  A filthy bike just needs a good blast with the hose, same as the car! High-pressure water is how bearings die young. Blast a hose or pressure washer straight at your hubs, bottom bracket or headset and you force water past the seals into the bearings, where it sits and rusts. Those are the exact spots to keep the jet away from. Here's the safe way: Bucket of warm, soapy water and a soft brush or sponge. Wash the frame and wheels top to bottom. Rinse gently with a light hose, watering can or a spray bottle. Low pressure, never aimed at the bearings. Do the drivetrain last. A dedicated degreaser and a stiff brush on the chain, cassette and derailleurs, then rinse lightly. Dry it off, then re-lube the chain. Washing strips the old lube so a fresh application is the final step every time. That's your bike sorted for spring! Got questions? Chat to our friendly in-store team members. Find your local store here.

E Bikes Buying Guide
Buying Guides

E Bikes Buying Guide

Electric bikes or e-bikes are bicycles powered by a long life battery that runs an electric motor. The motor acts to assist pedalling, making the act of riding simpler, easy and faster. You can control the amount of assistance the motor provides, which either increase or decrease the energy required by the battery or the rider. E-bikes E-bike technology can be found across many different styles of bikes, but generally the use cases can be separated in commuting and mountain biking. In either setting the general benefit is the same - use the electric motor to help you get further on your bike. For commuters this means longer distances that may have previously been unattainable can be achieved with no sweat (literally). Some riders will even progressively reduce the amount of assistance they require as they become fitter over time, a great way to build up your fitness level. For mountain bikers, it means access to more of the fun downhill sections they you may not be able to access on your own. Faster, further, steeper terrain becomes accessible to riders of any fitness level. Imagine getting twice as many runs out of morning on the trails.   Modern Electric Bikes are a revolution for the bike industry. With their sleek frames, quick and easy rechargeable long-life batteries you'll be able to ride anywhere on and off road. They ensure a safe ride while reducing the force and effort required when encountering tricky or steep terrain.  See All E-bikes Commute to Work With an e-commuter bike, you get electric motor power that assists with your peddling. It's not like a motor bike or scooter that does the work for you, it simply gives you that extra push so you can arrive at work fresh and fast. View Electric Commuter Bikes Foldable Design With a comfortable range of up to 40kms, a quick charge time and easy "2 fold" mechanism, folding e-bikes are great for the weekend traveler, camper-van/caravan owner, uni student, city commuter, or for someone that is short of storage space. View Folding Electric Bikes

Bike Locks Buying Guide

Bike Locks Buying Guide

A cyclist's best friend is a trusty bike lock. With so many options on the market, choosing the right one can feel overwhelming. This guide will break down the different types of bike locks, their features, and help you make an informed decision to keep your beloved bike safe and sound. Why You Need a Bike Lock The primary purpose of a bike lock is to deter theft. A good lock makes your bike a less attractive target, forcing thieves to either give up or spend more time and effort trying to steal it, which increases their risk of being caught. Investing in a quality lock provides peace of mind, allowing you to leave your bike unattended without constant worry. Types of Bike Locks U-Lock / D-Lock U-locks, also known as D-locks, are a popular choice for their high level of security. They consist of a rigid U-shaped shackle that locks into a crossbar. Their hardened steel construction makes them resistant to cutting and leverage attacks. U-locks are ideal for securing your bike frame to a fixed object like a bike rack or pole. Folding Lock Folding locks offer a great balance of security and portability. They are made of a series of steel plates connected by rivets, allowing them to be folded into a compact size for easy transport. While generally not as secure as a high-quality U-lock, they provide more flexibility for locking your bike to various objects. Chain Lock A chain lock consists of a heavy-duty chain and a separate padlock. Their flexibility allows you to secure your bike to a wide range of objects, and they are a formidable deterrent against cutting attacks. However, their weight can make them less convenient to carry around. Look for chains with hexagonal or trapezoidal links for added security. Cable Lock Cable locks are the lightest and most portable option, but they offer the least amount of security. They are best used as a secondary lock to secure your wheels or accessories, or for very short stops in low-risk areas. Even thick cable locks can be easily cut with bolt cutters. Additional Security Features Smart Trackers In the unfortunate event your bike is stolen, a smart tracker can be a lifesaver. These small devices can be hidden on your bike and use in-built GPS or other technologies like an Apple AirTag (sold separatey) to track its location, significantly increasing the chances of recovery. Alarms Some bike locks now come with built-in alarms. These motion-sensitive devices will emit a loud siren if your bike is tampered with, drawing attention to the thief and scaring them off. Locking Mechanism - Combo vs. Key Locks Combination Locks  Combination locks offer the convenience of not having to carry a key. You can set your own personal code, making them easy to use and share. However, they are generally considered less secure than key locks and can be more susceptible to being decoded by a skilled thief. Key Locks  Key locks provide a higher level of security, with complex key designs that are difficult to pick. They are the preferred choice for high-risk areas or for securing expensive bikes. The only downside is the need to carry a key, which can be lost or forgotten. Conclusion Choosing the right bike lock depends on your individual needs and risk factors. For the highest level of security, a U-lock or a heavy-duty chain lock is your best bet. A folding lock is a great option for those who prioritize portability. Cable locks should only be used as a secondary deterrent. Consider adding a smart tracker or an alarm for an extra layer of protection. And when it comes to locking mechanisms, a key lock will almost always be more secure than a combination lock. By understanding the different types of locks and their features, you can select the perfect one to keep your bike safe and give you the freedom to ride without worry.

Your Ultimate E-Scooter Buying Guide
Buying Guides

Your Ultimate E-Scooter Buying Guide

Find Your Perfect Ride with 99 Bikes Thinking about ditching the car or public transport for a fun, efficient, and eco-friendly ride? Electric scooters are zipping their way into Australian cities, offering a fantastic way to navigate your daily commute or simply enjoy getting around. At 99 Bikes, as the world's most approachable bike store, we believe getting started should be easy and, most importantly, safe. That's why we've put together this ultimate guide to help you choose the best e-scooter for your needs. We'll break down the jargon, answer your burning questions, and show you some of our top picks designed for the Australian way of life. In a Nutshell: Our Top E-Scooter Picks  Best For... Our Pick: Key Highlight: Overall Urban Ride Segway Ninebot E3 Pro Electric Scooter Fantastic blend of portability, range, and comfort. Designed to fit under train seats! Best Value Segway Ninebot E2 Pro Electric Scooter Affordable entry into reliable e-scooter commuting with Segway's trusted tech. Long-Distance Commutes Segway Ninebot KickScooter MAX G3 Incredible range (up to 65km) and robust build for extended trips. All-Terrain & Comfort Segway Ninebot ZT3 Pro Electric Scooter Built tough with advanced dual suspension for a premium, smooth ride. Kids & Young Riders Segway Ninebot C2 Lite eKickScooter Safe, fun, and easy to ride for the younger generation.   For most urban commuters, an e-scooter with pneumatic (air-filled) tyres, a dual braking system, and a water-resistance rating of at least IPX4 offers the best balance of comfort, safety, and real-world durability. What to Look For: Key Features & Considerations Choosing an e-scooter can feel a bit overwhelming. Let's break down the most important features to consider, from an approachable, expert perspective. 1. Portability & Weight: Can You Take It With You? Your e-scooter's weight and how easily it folds are crucial if you plan to combine your ride with public transport or carry it into your office. Lighter is often better: Scooters typically range from around 12kg to over 25kg. If you're carrying it up stairs or onto a train, every kilogram counts! Folding Mechanisms: Check how easily and securely a scooter folds down. A compact fold is key. Train-Friendly Design: The Segway Ninebot E3 Pro, for example, is specifically designed to be compact enough to stow under most train seats, making it a fantastic option for multi-modal commuters. Important Public Transport Note: While e-scooters are great for trains, it's worth noting that most buses in Australia do not allow e-scooters onboard due to safety and space regulations. Always check with your local council or public transport provider if integrating a bus ride is part of your commute plan. Heavy Duty = Heavier Weight: Keep in mind that more powerful, long-range, or off-road models (like the ZT3 Pro) tend to be significantly heavier due to larger batteries and more robust frames. 2. Range & Hill Climbing Ability: Conquering Your Commute Don't underestimate those "small" inclines! Your daily route might surprise you when tackling it on two wheels. Range (Battery Size): This (in km) is how far you can travel on one charge. We recommend choosing a model with a "real-world" range that's at least 20-30% more than your daily round trip to avoid "range anxiety." Hill Climbing Power: This is where motor power (Watts) and torque (Nm) matter. A higher-watt motor will handle hills better. Tip: You might not realise how steep your commute is until you're on a scooter! Google Maps' "Bicycling" directions can give you a rough idea of inclines (elevation gain) and a reasonable estimate of your trip time. 3. Tyre Type: Pneumatic (Air) vs. Solid This is a huge factor in ride quality. You have two main choices: Pneumatic (Air-Filled) Tyres: Pros: Much smoother and more comfortable ride, as the air acts as a natural shock absorber. Better grip, especially in wet conditions. Cons: Can get punctures (though this is less common with quality tyres and proper inflation). Solid (or Honeycomb) Tyres: Pros: 100% puncture-proof. Zero maintenance. Cons: A much harsher, bumpier ride. You will feel every crack in the pavement. Can be slippery in the wet. Our Approachable Advice: For most urban riders, pneumatic (air-filled) tyres are worth it for the massive boost in comfort and safety. Just learn to check your tyre pressure, like on a bike! 4. Suspension Systems: Smooth Riding Ahead Not all roads are perfectly smooth! Suspension absorbs bumps and vibrations, making your ride much more comfortable and safer. No Suspension: Common on entry-level models. Relies entirely on pneumatic tyres for cushioning. Dual Suspension: Found on premium and all-terrain models (like the Segway Ninebot ZT3 Pro), this offers the best ride comfort by absorbing bumps at both the front and rear wheel. Improved Control: Suspension doesn't just absorb bumps; it also helps dampen inertia when you're braking quickly, pushing the tyre into the ground for better grip. This keeps the scooter more stable and easier to handle during sudden stops. 5. Braking Systems: Your Safety Net Reliable brakes are non-negotiable. E-scooters typically use one or more of these systems: Disc Brakes: (Like on a car or mountain bike) Offer the best and most reliable stopping power, especially in the wet. Drum Brakes: Enclosed within the wheel hub, they are very low-maintenance and work well in all weather. Electronic (Regenerative) Brakes: Use the motor to slow down, which can put a tiny bit of charge back into the battery. These are best paired with a disc or drum brake. Our Recommendation: Always look for a scooter with a high-quality mechanical brake (disc or drum), not just an electronic one. 6. Lighting Systems: Be Seen & See Your Way Lights are essential for visibility, especially if you ride at dawn, dusk, or night. "To Be Seen" Lights (50-200 Lumens): These are standard on most scooters. They are bright enough to make you visible to cars and pedestrians on well-lit city streets. "To See" Lights (400+ Lumens): If you are riding through unlit or dimly lit areas like bike paths or quiet streets, you will need a more powerful front light to see potholes and obstacles. Indicators: Some higher-end models, like the Segway Ninebot ZT3 Pro, come with built-in turn indicators, which is a fantastic safety feature for signalling your intentions in traffic. 7. Water Resistance (IP Rating): Can I Ride in the Rain? This is a critical "real-world" question. The answer is in the scooter's IP (Ingress Protection) Rating. What it means: An IP rating has two numbers (e.g., IPX4). The first is for dust, the second is for water. IPX4: "Splash resistant from any direction." This is the minimum you should look for. It means you're protected if you get caught in light rain or splash through a small puddle. IPX5: "Protected against low-pressure water jets." This is even better and gives you more confidence in all-weather commuting. Important: No e-scooter is fully "waterproof." You should never submerge it or ride in torrential rain. 8. Security: Keeping Your Ride Safe E-scooters are a valuable investment, so security is paramount. Digital Security: The Segway Ninebot range is a leader here, offering app-based features like GPS trackability and on some models the ability to lock and unlock the bike based on your proximity to your scooter! Physical Locks: The Challenge: Locking an e-scooter can be tricky, as many models lack the closed loops you find on a bike. Our Recommendation: D-Locks (U-locks) are typically a great option. Their rigid shape makes them difficult to manipulate or slide out from around the scooter's main stem or a folding mechanism. Always lock your scooter to an immovable object. 9. Weight Capacity (Max Rider Load) This is a key safety spec. Always check the maximum rider weight for any scooter you're considering. This limit (usually 100kg or 120kg) is set by the manufacturer to ensure the frame, brakes, and motor can operate safely and durably. Remember to factor in the weight of your backpack, too! 10. Safety & Legality: Ride Smart, Ride Legal Your safety is our priority, and understanding local regulations is key. Helmet Up! Always, always, always wear a helmet. It's the law in most of Australia, and it's simply the smartest thing you can do on a scooter. Battery Safety: All e-scooters sold at 99 Bikes feature high-quality Lithium-Ion batteries and chargers that meet stringent Australian standards. Always use the original charger and never leave a charging scooter unattended. Local Regulations: E-scooter legality varies significantly across Australia. E-scooters are only legal on public footpaths or roads in some regions/council areas, often with specific speed limits (like in Brisbane). In other areas (like Sydney), they may be restricted to private property only. Crucial: You MUST consult your local council's website or state transport authority for the most up-to-date rules on where you can legally ride in your area. Speed Limits: To comply with legislation in most councils that do allow the use of e-scooters on public land, our product range is limited to 25km/h from the factory. 11. Warranty & Support: The 99 Bikes Advantage This is one of the most important, and often overlooked, parts of your purchase. Why buy from 99 Bikes? When you buy from us, you're not just getting a box. You're getting peace of mind. Real Warranty Support: If something goes wrong, you don't have to deal with a faceless overseas website. You can bring your scooter back to us, and our team will manage the warranty process for you with the Australian supplier. Real People: Our team can give you expert, approachable advice before you buy and support you after.

Kids Bikes Buying Guide
Buying Guides

Kids Bikes Buying Guide

How to Choose the Right Kids Bike Whether it's your kids first bike, or they've outgrown their old set of wheels; buying a kids bike can be difficult if you don't know how to pick the right one. First things first, kids bikes are sized according to their wheel size, not their frame size like adult bikes. Size is the most important consideration when choosing bicycles for kids. The right size bike will help keep your child safe, comfortable and get the most enjoyment from their bike. Another important consideration is the frame weight. A lightweight frame that places the child in a stable, comfortable riding position will be easier to pedal and more enjoyable to ride, meaning it will get ridden much more! Bikes made with alloy frames are typically more expensive than bikes with steel frames. The benefits of alloy are that it is lighter and easier for the child to ride, as well as being less prone to rust. An alternative for older kids are BMX bikes. BMX frames are generally more heavy duty, but this does make them slightly heavier so they're better suited to more experienced riders. All kids bikes at 99 Bikes are professionally assembled by a trained bike mechanic according to a rigorous safety checklist. This ensures both a safer and less frustrating experience than assembling the bike yourself. KID'S BIKE SIZING The height of the child is more important than the child's age, however, for simplicity this guide refers to the suitability of the bike relative to approximate age groups. Bike Size (Wheel Diameter) Approximate Age Range Child Height Range Balance Bike (12") Up to 2 years Up to 94cm 12" Bike 2 - 4 years 75 - 94 cm 14" Bike 2 - 5 years 80 - 108 cm 16" Bike 3 - 6 years 84 - 112 cm 20" Bike 5 - 8 years 108 - 129 cm 24" Bike 8 - 11 years 125 - 148 cm 26" Bike 10+ years 145 - 160 cm BALANCE BIKES - TODDLERS Balance bikes all come in a 12 inch wheels size and are suitable for kids up to 2 years old. Balance bikes are two wheeled bike without pedals that allow children to sit and coast, helping them develop the balance and skills required to ride a bicycle. The perfect introduction to bikes Balance bikes come with a 12 inch wheel Suitable for kids up to 2 years old No pedals, so they help develop important balance and skills required for riding See All Balance Bikes 12" KIDS BIKES (AGES 2-4 YEARS OR 75-94CM) 12 inch bikes are generally suitable for kids 2-4 years old. These bikes come with training wheels, and may feature a push steerer so the child can be assisted or directed when needed. 12 inch kids bikes are best suited to young children ages 2-4 years old These bikes come with training wheels May feature a push steerer so the child can be assisted or directed where needed See All 12" Bikes 14" KIDS BIKES (AGES 2-5 YEARS OR 80-108CM) A 14-inch kids’ bike is a great step up from balance bikes or smaller trainer models, offering young riders their first experience with pedals while maintaining stability and confidence. Designed for kids aged 2 to 5 years old (with a height range of 80cm to 108cm), these bikes come with features that help them learn and enjoy their ride safely. Lightweight frames and smaller grips ensure little hands can steer comfortably. Many models include removable training wheels, making the transition from assisted riding to two wheels smooth and stress-free. Coaster brakes (pedal backward to stop) or child-specific hand brakes help young riders develop control and stopping confidence. Low stand-over heights, stable wheelbases, and soft-touch saddles provide comfort and security for growing riders. See All 14" Bikes 16" KIDS BIKES (AGES 3-6 YEARS OR 84-112CM) 16 inch bikes are generally suitable for kids aged 3 – 6 years old. Typically bikes this size will have training wheels and no gears. Around this age children may not have developed a lot of the strength required for riding, so the bike’s weight will be an important consideration. For older children you may want to consider a 16” BMX for a stronger, heavier duty bike. 16 inch kids bikes are suited to those aged between 3 and 6 years old These bikes will typically come with training wheels and no gears Bike weight is an important consideration as some kids will not have developed a lot of strength required for riding For older children you may want to consider a 16” BMX for those kids wanting a stronger or more heavy duty bike Comes with rear 'coaster' brakes (pedal backwards to brake), and front hand brakes.  See All 16" Bikes   20" KIDS BIKES (AGES 5-8 YEARS OR 108-129CM) 20 inch bikes are generally suitable for kids aged 6 -10 years. 20 inch is also the standard size for a BMX wheel, and given they both have no gears the 20 inch kid’s bike and BMX share a lot of similarities. The main difference between the two is that a kid’s bike will be lighter and easier to ride, and a BMX will be heavier and more durable. Kid’s bikes are designed in a mountain bike style, whereas BMX are designed more for street and skate park riding. A kid’s bike may be a better option if the child is still learning to ride, while a BMX will be more suitable if the child is already confident - or if they have a tendency to be rough with things. Some 20 inch bikes also come with gears, which can be beneficial if the child is a bit more experienced and coordinated, as well as suspension for better comfort and handling. 20 inch kids bikes are best suited for kids aged between 6 to 10 years old This size is also the standard size for BMX Kids 20 inch bikes are designed as a mountain bike style, so they’re easier to ride and lighter Kids bikes are the best option if they are newer to riding BMX bikes are more durable and designed for street or skate park riding BMX are great for the more confident rider or if they tend to be rough with things! Some 20” kids bikes come with gears so are a great options if your child is more experienced and wants to build on their riding skills Comes with hand brakes.  See All 20" Bikes 26" KIDS BIKES (AGES 10-13 YEARS OR 145-160CM) 26 inch mountain bikes are suited for kids that are 10-13 years old. 26 inch bikes typically feature gears and suspension forks. 26 inch bikes are the largest of kids bikes with the next progression in bikes being an extra small adult bike. Taller kids above 148cm now have an option to go for a 26” kids bikes as opposed to a small adult’s frame These 26 inch kids bikes offer great value for older kids The junior frame stye features an easy reach brake lever and other child-friendly features, making them a preferred choice over an extra small adult’s frame for children See All 26" Bikes How to Pick the Perfect Kids' Bike   Step 1: Find the Right Size The most important factor when choosing a kids’ bike is size. Unlike adult bikes, which are sized by frame, kids' bikes are measured by wheel diameter. Use our handy size chart above to match your child's height to the correct wheel size. If your child falls between sizes, consider their experience and confidence level: More experienced riders can handle a larger frame, which they’ll grow into. Less confident riders will find a smaller bike easier to control and manoeuvre. Step 2: Match the Bike to Their Riding Competency Once you’ve found the right size, consider your child's riding ability and skill level: Training Wheels: If your child is just learning to ride, look for a bike that comes with training wheels, or purchase them separately. We can help with installation! Single-Speed vs. Geared Bikes: Single-speed bikes are great for beginners still learning balance and braking. Geared bikes help with tackling hills and longer rides but require more skill to use properly. Step 3: Let Them Choose Their Favourite Colour This might just be the most important step! A bike in your child's favourite colour makes for an even more exciting gift. When they love the look of their new bike, they’ll be eager to ride it. Understanding Key Features Based on Budget Once you've covered the basics, your budget will determine the frame material, braking system, and extra features that suit your child's needs. Frame Material: Alloy vs. Steel Alloy frames are lighter and slightly more expensive, making them easier for kids to ride and handle. Steel frames are more affordable but heavier, which can make riding more challenging for younger kids. Braking Systems: V-Brakes vs. Disc Brakes V-brakes (rim brakes) are more affordable and found on most entry-level kids' bikes. Disc brakes offer better stopping power and are typically found on premium models. Comparing Kids' Bike Options Here’s a breakdown of three great kids’ bikes at different price points to help you decide: Budget-Friendly Kids' Bike ($) – Pedal Chomp - $299 Steel frame Rim brakes 7-speed Shimano twist shift gears All-Rounder Kids' Bike ($$) – Pedal Crush - $399 Lightweight alloy frame Rim brakes 7-speed Shimano trigger shift gears Upgraded grips and saddle for comfort Premium Kids' Bike ($$$) – Pedal Renegade - $549 Lightweight alloy frame Mechanical disc brakes 8-speed trigger Microshift gears Upgraded grips and saddle for a premium riding experience Picking the perfect kids' bike comes down to size, competency, and personal preference. Whether you're looking for a budget-friendly option or a high-performance bike, there’s a perfect match for every young rider. Visit us in-store or online to explore our full range and get expert advice on the best choice for your child!

Kids Bike Helmet Buying Guide

Kids Bike Helmet Buying Guide

A child's laughter as they pedal their bike for the first time is a joyous sound. But with the fun and freedom of cycling comes the responsibility of safety. And when it comes to bike safety, there's one piece of equipment that's non-negotiable: a helmet. This guide will walk you through the importance of helmets for kids, how to pick one they'll love to wear, and how to ensure it fits perfectly for maximum protection. Why a Helmet is a Must-Have Riding a bike is a fantastic way for kids to stay active and explore their world. But falls and tumbles are an inevitable part of learning to ride. A properly fitted helmet is the single most effective way to prevent head injuries, reducing the risk of serious brain injury by up to 88%. It's not just for the road; a helmet should be worn every time your child rides, whether it's on the footpath, at the park, or in your own driveway. By starting the helmet habit early, you're instilling a lifelong safety practice. When kids see their parents and older siblings wearing helmets, it becomes a normal and expected part of getting on a bike. Finding a "Cool" Helmet They'll Want to Wear The safest helmet is the one your child will actually wear. If a helmet is uncomfortable or they don't like the design, it's more likely to be left behind. Here's how to find a helmet that's both safe and stylish: Let Them Choose: Get your child involved in the selection process. They're far more likely to be enthusiastic about wearing a helmet that they've picked out themselves. Whether it's their favourite colour, a cool pattern, or a design featuring their favourite character, a helmet that reflects their personality is a winner. Comfort is Key: Look for a lightweight helmet with good ventilation to keep them cool on hot days. Comfortable straps that don't chafe are also important. Some helmets even come with magnetic buckles that are easier for little hands to use and reduce the risk of pinching. Consider the Style: The type of riding your child does can also influence the style of helmet. A skate-style helmet might be more appealing for trips to the skate park, while a more traditional bike helmet is great for everyday riding. A kids mountain bike helmet can also be quite versatile. Ensuring the Perfect Fit for Maximum Protection An ill-fitting helmet won't provide the protection your child needs. A helmet should be snug, but not too tight. Here's how to get the perfect fit: Measure Their Head: Use a soft tape measure to find the circumference of your child's head. Measure about two finger-widths above their eyebrows, keeping the tape level all the way around. This measurement will help you when looking at helmet size charts. Position it Correctly: The helmet should sit low and level on their forehead, not tilted back. You should be able to fit one or two fingers between their eyebrows and the bottom of the helmet. Check the Side Straps: The side straps should form a "Y" shape just below their earlobes. Adjust the Chin Strap: The chin strap should be snug enough that you can only fit one or two fingers between the strap and their chin. When they open their mouth wide, they should feel the helmet pull down slightly. The "Shake" Test: Ask your child to shake their head from side to side and nod up and down. The helmet should not move or wobble. By following these simple steps, you can ensure that your child's helmet is providing the best possible protection. A well-fitting, "cool" helmet will give you peace of mind and allow your child to enjoy the freedom and fun of cycling safely.

Cycling Shoes Buying Guide

Cycling Shoes Buying Guide

Step Up Your Ride: The Ultimate Cycling Shoes Buying Guide If you're looking to get more out of your bike rides, one of the biggest upgrades you can make is what you put on your feet. Ditching your regular trainers for a pair of dedicated cycling shoes is a total game-changer. Why? This improvement comes from shoes designed specifically for cycling, whether they connect to "clipless" pedals for maximum efficiency or grip tenaciously onto flat pedals for confidence and control. This guide will break down everything you need to know to find the perfect pair for your ride. Types of Cycling Shoes The first step is to match your shoe to your primary style of riding. Each type is specifically designed for a different environment. Road Cycling Shoes: Built for speed and efficiency on pavement, these are the lightweights of the cycling world. They feature extremely stiff soles to maximize power transfer and a sleek profile for aerodynamics. They are designed to be used with clipless pedals and are very awkward to walk in due to the large, external cleat. Mountain Bike (MTB) Clipless Shoes: Designed for off-road riders who want to be locked in. These shoes have a rugged construction and a stiff sole, but with enough flexibility for short hikes. The small metal cleat is recessed into the sole and surrounded by rubber tread, making it much easier to walk in than a road shoe. Flat Pedal Shoes: A popular choice for mountain bikers (especially for trail, enduro, and downhill), commuters, and BMX riders. These look similar to skate shoes but are packed with cycling-specific technology. They feature an ultra-sticky rubber outsole with a special tread pattern designed to interlock with the pins on a flat pedal, providing incredible grip. The sole is also much stiffer than a regular trainer, reducing foot fatigue and improving pedalling efficiency. They offer the freedom to quickly take a foot off the pedal, which is great for building confidence on technical trails. Indoor/Spin Shoes: Made for spin classes or your indoor trainer. These are often a hybrid, designed with comfort and breathability as top priorities. Many have soles compatible with both 2-bolt and 3-bolt clipless systems, giving you flexibility depending on the bike you're using. Understanding Cleats For riders choosing a "clipless" system, understanding cleats is essential. (If you've gone for flat pedal shoes, feel free to jump to the next section!) The cleat is the crucial link that bolts to the bottom of your shoe and clips into the pedal. The two main systems are not interchangeable. 3-Bolt System (Look KÉO / Shimano SPD-SL style): This is the standard for road cycling. The large, plastic cleat creates a wide, stable platform against the pedal, which is perfect for efficient power transfer over long distances. Different coloured cleats often indicate the amount of "float" (the degree your foot can rotate), allowing you to find a comfortable position. 2-Bolt System (Shimano SPD style): This is the go-to for mountain biking, gravel riding, and indoor cycling. The smaller metal cleat is recessed into the shoe's sole, which allows for easy walking and quick clipping in and out. This system is also better at shedding mud and debris. Fastening Systems How a shoe closes affects its fit, weight, and ease of adjustment. BOA Dials: A ratcheting dial tightens a steel wire, providing incredibly precise, on-the-fly adjustments and distributing pressure evenly across your foot. This is a top choice for performance and convenience on clipless shoes. Laces: The classic choice for flat pedal shoes and some clipless models. Laces offer the most customisable fit, allowing you to perfectly tailor the tension across your entire foot. Just be sure to securely tuck them away from your chain. Velcro Straps: Simple, lightweight, and reliable. Velcro is common on entry-level to mid-range shoes and is very easy to use, though it offers less fine-tuning than a dial system. Sole Materials A shoe's sole dictates its stiffness—the key to efficient pedalling. Carbon Fibre: The gold standard for clipless road shoes. Carbon soles are the lightest, stiffest, and most efficient option available, ensuring maximum power transfer. Nylon / Composite: The most common material in mid-range clipless shoes. It offers an excellent balance of stiffness, comfort, and affordability. Rubber Composite: The heart of a flat pedal shoe. The stiffness comes from an internal shank (a reinforced plate), while the outsole is made of a carefully formulated sticky rubber compound for maximum grip on the pedal pins. Final Thoughts: Fit is King While it's easy to get caught up in sole materials and fastening systems, the most important factor of all is fit. A shoe that doesn't fit correctly will be uncomfortable and inefficient, regardless of how expensive it is. Sizing varies between brands, so it's always best to try shoes on before you buy. A well-fitting shoe should be snug in the heel with a little bit of wiggle room for your toes. Once you find that perfect pair, you'll wonder how you ever rode without them.

Bike Lights Buying Guide

Bike Lights Buying Guide

Your Ultimate Guide to Choosing the Perfect Bike Lights Whether you're a daily commuter, a weekend road warrior, or a trail-shredding mountain biker, having the right set of bike lights is crucial for your safety. Not only do they illuminate your path in low-light conditions, but they also make you visible to other road users. With a bewildering array of options on the market, choosing the right lights can be a daunting task. This guide will shine a light on the key features to consider and help you find the perfect set for your needs. "To See" vs. "To Be Seen": Understanding the Basics Bike lights generally fall into two categories: "To See" Lights: These are powerful front lights designed to illuminate the path ahead of you, allowing you to see potholes, debris, and other obstacles on dark roads or trails. "To Be Seen" Lights: These lights are designed to make you visible to other road users. They include both front and rear lights and are essential for riding in any light conditions, including during the day. Key Features to Consider When shopping for bike lights, keep these key features in mind: Brightness (Lumens): The brightness of a bike light is measured in lumens. The higher the lumen count, the brighter the light. The number of lumens you need depends on your riding environment: Well-lit urban areas (being seen): 100-500 lumens for a front light is sufficient. Dark suburban roads or unlit bike paths (seeing): 500-1200 lumens for a front light is recommended. Off-road or trail riding (seeing in complete darkness): 1200+ lumens is ideal. Rear lights typically have a lower lumen output, with anything from 20 to 300 lumens being effective for visibility. Beam Pattern: The beam pattern affects how the light is distributed. Narrow/Spot Beam: Concentrates the light in a small area, which is great for seeing far down the road at high speeds. Wide/Flood Beam: Spreads the light over a larger area, improving peripheral vision, which is useful for navigating technical trails. Combination Beam: Many lights offer a combination of spot and flood beams, providing a versatile option for various riding conditions. Battery Life and Charging: USB Rechargeable: Most modern bike lights are USB rechargeable, which is convenient and cost-effective. Check the charging time and make sure it fits your lifestyle. Disposable Batteries: Some cheaper lights still use disposable batteries. These can be a good backup option, but they are less environmentally friendly and can be costly in the long run. Run Time: Pay close attention to the claimed run time for different light modes. A light's run time on its brightest setting will be significantly shorter than on a flashing or lower-power mode. Mounting Options: Your lights should be easy to mount and secure on your bike. Handlebar and Seatpost Mounts: These are the most common mounting locations. Look for sturdy, tool-free mounts that are easy to use. Helmet Mounts: A helmet-mounted light is a great addition for mountain bikers as it allows you to direct the light where you are looking, especially around corners. Other Mounts: Some lights can be mounted on racks, bags, or clothing for added visibility. Durability and Weather Resistance: If you ride in all weather conditions, look for lights with a good level of water resistance. The IP rating (Ingress Protection) indicates how well a light is protected against dust and water. An IPX4 rating is sufficient for rain, while an IPX7 rating means the light can be submerged in water. Matching Lights to Your Riding Style Urban Commuting: For city riding, the priority is being seen by motorists, pedestrians, and other cyclists. A front light of 100-500 lumens with a flashing mode and a bright rear flasher (20-100 lumens) is a good setup. Road Cycling: If you're riding on unlit roads, you'll need a more powerful front light to see the road ahead. A front light of 500-1200 lumens or more, paired with a bright rear light, will keep you safe. Mountain Biking: For trail riding at night, you'll need a powerful lighting system to navigate technical terrain. A combination of a bright handlebar-mounted light (1200+ lumens) and a helmet-mounted light for looking through turns is the ideal setup. Conclusion Investing in a good set of bike lights is one of the most important things you can do to improve your safety on the road or trail. By considering your riding style and the key features outlined in this guide, you can choose a lighting system that will keep you visible and illuminate your way, no matter where or when you ride. Ride safe!